CHASING PAINT

Madrid/Lisbon Workout

March 21, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

I’ve been working out at the gym for months, with Madrid as my motivation. I need all the strength and stamina I can muster. I go four days a week, one of them with a great trainer, Jessica Bowman. She’s got me running stairs, which is brilliant. It makes total sense if you know how much time I spend climbing and descending stairs in museum. I do upper body weights with the goal of being able to heave my carry-on luggage into the overhead bin on the airplanes. True confession: I also play the old lady card. Hey, gray hair and seniority is good for something. Usually someone offers to give me a hand.

Today was typical – I pedaled for 50 minutes on a recumbent bike, stretched, then did a back/ ab machine for another ten minutes.

I am not kidding myself that this in any way equals what the upcoming Madrid/ Lisbon trip will require of me, but it does keep me limber. I shift into a another gear on the road. The adrenalin and endorphins released when I’m standing in front of great art, the mental agility required to navigate each day in a strange land, plus the complete lack of routine seems to tap into resources I can’t usually access.

Sweet Art Alabama

March 18, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

It was gorgeous, gorgeous work. Not allowed to take photos or sketch, so you’ll have to go see it for yourself.

I did something I’ve never done – I took along a magnifying glass.

The kind that Sherlock Holmes carried. Sturdy, with a handle. What a difference! Especially looking at the etchings under the low light conditions favored by conservators. They had several by Rembrandt, and I could see the individual expressions on each of the faces. I’m definitely packing a magnifying glass in my luggage.

It was in the low 80s in Alabama, the same weather I can expect about midway through my Madrid adventure. We walked fifteen minutes to a restaurant, and I was overheated in my jeans and chucks. Made me think about packing skirts and sandals. But then, back in the museum, it was cool to frosty, as AC in the south often is. So again, layers, but ditching the down jacket, a hoodie is plenty. No heavy socks, no long sleeve shirts. By the time I got home I was motivated to order some leopard print sandals that will go with my black wardrobe. Simple slides that I hope will require minimal breaking in to be sublimely comfortable. If not, it’s an old pair of black Merrell slides. The heat of the day is best served by getting horizontal. Maybe I’ll be taking that siesta and going out at dusk for round two of Madrileños life. Well, probably not, but I’ve made a note to schedule my walking around tours of the city for early in the mornings and early in the trip. before the city heats up like a griddle.

The drive over to Birmingham was two and a half hours. The drive back was closer to three and a half, thanks to construction on a bridge that funneled three lanes down to one. My daughter did all the driving and was an entertaining companion. She has a great eye and we often find the same work compelling.

They had an excellent Innes and Bierstadt in their permanent collection. A luscious Bouguereau, Aurora.

A slightly racy Sargent I’d never seen. An interesting terracotta bust of an authoritarian Doge, which, thanks to Terry Pratchett, will always remind me of the Patrician, Havelock Vetinari.

A fabulous portrait of three spinster sisters who ran a local female academy in the 30s. They fairly jumped off the canvas. I can’t find them searching the permanent collection, but trust me, go hunt for them. A second-rate Monet and Canaletto, but a first-rate Bierstadt and Innes. Plus, monkeys.

At the end of this long day of travel and museum reveling, I ached from my toes to my hips. No getting around my age, I’m afraid. But no giving into it, either.

Roadtrip

March 17, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day – here’s hoping you don’t have to chase any snakes. Wear green.

I’ll be on the road for five hours today with beloved Art historian daughter – trekking across the southland to the Birmingham, Alabama art museum http://www.artsbma.org/ to feast my eyes on their small treasures exhibit. It is not every day my part of the world hosts the likes of Vermeer, Hals, Steen, Leyster, Rembrandt and van Dyck. http://www.artsbma.org/5-things-to-know-about-girl-with-the-red-hat/

The bulk of my planning for the Madrid/Lisbon trip is done and dusted. I can just plug and play the strategies I used for my month in Paris – like which clothes and electronics to bring. There is some tweaking to be sure. Clothing will be almost identical, though I am eliminating long sleeve shirts, hiking socks and a down coat. Checking the history of the April weather of Madrid, the last ten years have seen most days in the 70s/80s. http://www.wunderground.com/history/airport/LEMD/2014/4/17/MonthlyCalendar.html?req_city=Madrid&req_state=&req_statename=Spain&reqdb.zip=00000&reqdb.magic=1&reqdb.wmo=08221 You have to go back to 2004 to see consistent daily averages in the 50s/60s.

No yoga pants – sure they are cute and comfy, but their lack of pockets trumped that every time. No dress flats or clogs. Instead, two pairs of Chucks, maybe a pair of slides. More additions: Adding bright pinks and reds to the tee shirt mix. I remember craving color last time. In a nod to the warming weather, one pair of thin cotton cargo-esque pants.

Something I am packing since I couldn’t find it in Paris or it was crazy expensive – Earl Grey, English breakfast, Chai and Peppermint tea, oatmeal and Splenda. I’ll use those every single day.

My day-to-day plans are looser too – now that I know whatever I expect it will all change once actually set foot in the Prado. Just in time for Saint Patrick’s Day, the ‘Lettuce’

José de Galaz, Monstrance from the Church of San Ignacio in Bogotá, known as “The Lettuce”. 1700

Mr Peabody & Me

March 5, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

This blog is my own personal Wayback Machine. I re-read the entries from my first week in Paris last April, and it was an eyeopener. I won’t be bringing my down coat or raincoat or black mohair vest. Only one hat (wolfie) and a pair of mittens. No fancy Cole Haan walking shoes, though they are adorable. Just two pairs of chucks, in B&W and pink.

I pulled out my clothes – one pair each skinny black, gray, and blue jeans and two hoodies, plus teeshirts. More pattern in the tees this trip, less black. Pops of bright pink and bold socks. I remember getting so thirsty for color last time.
As I pulled my prospective wardrobe out, I tried things on. Wanted to be certain I could squeeze into it all. I’ve been living in yoga pants and loose long sleeve teeshirts. Painting and exercise are the main reason I get out of pajamas, and neither activities require dressing up.

I might as well admit I’ve been on a diet and exercise binge since January – in training for galloping around Madrid and climbing those notorious hills in Lisbon. Plus, being able to tell whether my bellybutton is an innie or an outie because my teeshirt is so tight is not a good look on a lady of my mature years.

Well, dang if it didn’t pay off. Everything fit. Even shirts that I couldn’t wear last summer because they clung too tightly to my midsection fit just fine. This means I get to wear my Voodoo Doughnut tee (Worth the Weight) and my Aloha Cowboy tee and red Gunshow tee (Defend Southern Food). So fun! It boosted my morning mood from pleasant into giddy-with-glee territory.

This afternoon my daughter came by to teach me and her dad how to wrangle the Google Hangout app, so we can text and video chat and not drop a fortune. I’ll cut off cellular access and restrict myself to wifi at the end of the day. For years. travel meant I basically went off the grid. I’ll kind of miss being utterly unplugged, but the blog is worth it. It’s more like the journals I kept in the 80s and the long emails I used to send to Robert than killing time chasing butterflies on the ‘Net.

What Was I Thinking?

March 4, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

I had a bout of pre-trip anxiety yesterday. I always go through a stretch of moody days where I can’t remember why I wanted to go on a long trip far away. My mind runs like this I’m not ready. I should study more history. The journey will exhaust me. I need to learn Portuguese. Some calamity – from stolen purse to psychotic landlord to broken leg – will befall me. Grumble grumble. Who wants to eat hot squid sandwiches and look at gloomy Spanish art anyway?

I do. And I will.

This has happened like clockwork, about month before every long-awaited trip. It’s predictable and look, it’s right on time. My policy is to note my glum mood and let it pass by, like clouds over the sun. I keep calm and carry on with my lists, in the sure and certain knowledge when I get on the plane I’ll be ready for adventure. It isn’t important whether or not it’s the adventure I have so carefully planned. In the immortal words of Rick Steves, if something is not to my liking, I can change my liking.

I have lost my passport, been targeted by a team of pickpockets, been spat at by a gypsy in Venice, passed a gallstone in a Paris museum, lost my way on foot in the dark of night, and arrived after a weary journey to find my accommodations uninhabitable. At the time I was too busy figuring out how to deal with the problem to be glum. In retrospect what I took away was confidence in my ability to adapt and thrive under all circumstances. Not a bad souvenir.

Holding Out For A Hero

March 1, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

One of the pleasures of trip anticipation is reading. Blogs posts and travel sites for real time, boots on the ground information and insights, but also histories, biographies, and novels. I came across a bio of Vasco de Gama, who, in my hazy grade school memory, was a bold seafarer and explorer. Turns out he was also a vicious, bloodthirsty bastard. A man of appalling and horrifying acts of torture and vengeance. Take this example:

“After demanding the expulsion of Muslims from Calicut to the Zamorin Hindu, the latter sent the high priest Talappana Namboothiri (the very same person who conducted da Gama to the Zamorin’s chamber during his much celebrated first visit to Calicut in May 1498) for talks. Da Gama called him a spy, ordered the priests’ lips and ears to be cut off and after sewing a pair of dog’s ears to his head, sent him away.”

I thought I’d visit his tomb to pay homage to his nautical prowess. Turns out I’ll be going to make sure he’s still dead.

Ever hopeful, I turned to an audio book biography Isabella, Warrior Queen. More mayhem. I am all for strong female role models, but when I discover she invented the Inquisition, I’m outta there.

On the whole, I prefer the lives of the painters. Like, say, Diego Velasquez or Sofonisba Anguissola. Not that artists don’t get up to mischief, but it isn’t havoc on the grand scale that royalty and their sanctioned pirates tend to wreak.

Q & A Success

February 20, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Started posting on questions on the TripAdvisor Madrid Forum this week. I had great luck on the Paris board. Lots of helpful strategic info. One of my favorite replies linked to a Youtube site that had homemade videos of just the Louvre ceilings. Amazing and inspirational. I looked up the whole time I was there and was dazzled.

On the Madrid forum, 90% of the questions are the cheapest way to get from the airport, how to get soccer tickets, restaurant recs, best hotel at the cheapest price, and the intricacies of buying railroad tickets online. I figured my questions about art would be a welcome change or there would be crickets.

I hit the jackpot! Art lovers on Tripadvisor who have been or are living in Madrid came out of the woodwork. One great tip was a link to a blog “Every Museum in Madrid” – a kindred spirit who lived there in 2012 and explored them all. Got some excellent leads on art in churches, plus this tantalizing exhibition –

‘A Su Imagen’ is a selection of around 100 pieces of great quality and artistic value (Rubens, Murillo, Goya, Velázquez, Valdés Leal, Cranach) These are works covering a large period of time –from the 10th to the 20th century– that come from 22 dioceses and from public and private collections. Until 12 April 2015.

Note the closing date, which moves it up in priority. I probably would’ve missed it, blinded by the glories of the Prado. Now I have it plugged in on my Madrid day by day calendar.

I may not be able to pry myself out of the San Francisco El Grande Basilica, it looks so luscious. I Googled Almudena Cathedral and somehow ended up watching a video snippet of the royal wedding there. The dresses of the maids of honor looked like something out of a Velásquez court painting. And I can’t wait to visit Goya’s tomb in San Antonio de la Florida. I hope it is permitted to leave a little sketch or a very small paint brush. You can recognize the tomb of Fra Angelica in Rome just looking for the scraps of sketches, pencil stubs and tiny brushes, little offerings from artists paying him homage.

Prepping for Madrid

January 5, 2015 by Virginia Parker 1 Comment

I’ll be landing at Barajas airport in 87 days.

I’ve fired up the app https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dreamdays-countdown-to-days/id585947384?mt=8 that does a automatic countdown. When I peek at it, I get a little frisson of anticipatory pleasure. The Mary Cassatt painting of a matador in his suit of lights is my Dreamdays trip image. Is he lighting up in the spirit of a final smoke before the firing squad, or in a post-coital mood, spent with relief at surviving his bullfight? Now that the holidays are over, I’m buckling down to research, accumulating possibilities for my day by day planner, and pre-booking tickets and museum passes.

Most of the museums I plan to see have pages on Facebook and I spent a happy couple of hours making a new Madrid/Lisbon interest list for my newsfeed. I’m now getting updates that give me glimpses of the paintings and treasures I’ll be seeing in person. And hooray for that handy ‘translate’ tab at the bottom of foreign language posts. It’s not perfect, but I get the gist.

Filled in the April day-by-day calendar with preliminary excursions and quickly realized there won’t be enough hours in the days or days in the month to fit in everything I’d like to see. Decisions must be made – El Escorial or the Royal Palace? I’ll take those kinds of inquiries to www.TripAdvisor.com which has never failed to give me cogent advice.

Figuring out which days museums are closed, what holiday to be aware of, the best days and times to visit is a lovely puzzle. I like having rain vs shine options too. Getting those all-important museum passes that permit me to bypass lines will gain me time that otherwise I might have squandered. I’ve booked one tour, with Context Travel. I’ve had excellent experiences with them in the Vatican Museum and Rembrandt’s House in Amsterdam.

I yearned to stay at the Hotel Orfila for my last five days in Madrid, but it’s really pricey, and I worried it couldn’t possibly be as lovely as I imagined. Then I came across this on the Wendy Perrin travel site: “Best bang-for-your-buck hotel -Orfila, a 32-room hotel housed in a nineteenth-century palace that feels more like a family home than a five-star Relais & Chateaux property. It is located only 15 minutes by foot from the Prado Museum in a quiet, mostly residential neighborhood. Rooms are furnished in top-quality antiques that the owner has been collecting for years, and there is a beautiful garden for guests to enjoy. It’s the kind of place where you get much more than you pay for.” That last sentence pushed me over the edge, and I found a ‘four days for the price of one’ deal, and booked it. Okay it didn’t push, I gladly jumped. Wouldn’t you? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPZw-sbU1SA

Practiced my Spanish on Duolingo, something I’ve promised myself to do five days a week until I leave. It’s day 2.

Chicago Museums x 2

January 3, 2015 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

Back from Chicago with two museum visits. First, a Sunday trip to the Museum of Science + Industry. I didn’t pre-book my tickets online, my usual MO, and the line to buy tickets from personnel at counters was jammed with a wait of 45-60 minutes, winding through the ubiquitous post stanchions and retractable belt barriers. I noticed a bank of automatic ticket dispensers directly across the main hall. Despite museum aides beckoning to visitors, that line held fewer than a dozen people and I had my tickets in hand in five minutes. The ticket machines were touchscreen, simple to operate, easy to understand and, dare I say it, foolproof. I’ll keep an eye out for that alternative in other museums.

Christmas holiday plus kid-centric museum equals massive squealing crowds, but they go where they are pointed. I used one of my favorite strategies, starting on the third floor and working my way down. Bypassing the obvious entry point bought us a good two hours of relatively uncrowded museum-going pleasure. Suspended at the third floor eye level, aircraft – from the Wright Flyer, to a German Stuka, to a United 727 – celebrated the audacity of humans taking to the air. Displays of vintage scientific instruments were captivating; gleaming, elegant, and sleek.

My favorite exhibition was 80 at 80. http://www.msichicago.org/whats-here/exhibits/80-at-80/ I was mesmerized by the quirky video installation: Maarten Baas’ “Sweepers Clock” that shows men keeping time by sweeping garbage laid out in the shape of clock hands. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXNT4T56EmM

The best (cleanest, functioning, and no lines) women’s restroom was just off the submarine exhibit. The worst (crowded, dirty, many out-of-order stalls) was on the main floor off the food court. Avoiding the Disney ‘exhibit’ and touring the submarine U-boat was another useful strategy. The U-boat, also a designated war memorial, was well presented with sound/light enhancements and an excellent guide. Fascinating.

I sadly underestimated how long I’d want to gaze at the treasure trove that is the Art Institute of Chicago. Five hours went by in a blink. A single exhibit of Italian drawings kept me enthralled for the first two hours. http://www.artic.edu/exhibition/strokes-genius-italian-drawings-goldman-collection

Met Robert for our traditional Terzo Piano lunch, then sprinted back, aware of time running out. I dashed through European paintings and sculpture, keeping an eye out for boxes, reliquaries, and anything made of terracotta and porcelain, in every room I ventured through.

If I am honest, I was offended by the artist using stock news photos of people falling to their death, indifferent to the focus: Lucy McKenzie, and wished there was more to the Ethel Stein, Master Weaver exhibit.

I lost track of time in the glory that is Roman and Greek statuary.

Back to the drawings, where I spent my remaining time sketching a kneeling slave, a bearded saint, and this enchanting boy, the son of the artist.

All this is good practice for the upcoming Madrid/Lisbon trip. Start at the top, work your way down, take all the time you possibly can. It won’t be enough.

Chi-town at Christmas

December 18, 2014 by Virginia Parker Leave a Comment

The day after Christmas we depart for Glen Ellyn, a charming suburb just outside of Chicago. I go to visit my bio-dad, a man of great aplomb and consequence. This is my fifth consecutive year for this trip, so it didn’t occur to me to write it up in Chasing Paint until the other day, but my special treat is a day in the Chicago Institute of Art. Robert drops me off at the entrance and we meet for lunch at the museum’s restaurant, Terzo Piano. Last year, I scored with Lobster Nachos (lobster in hollandaise over fries). Divine!

Not much prep required since I always go just around Christmas. The suitcase contents stay the same, and I can confidently predict the Lions outside the Chicago Institute of Art will be wearing wreaths and standing on Christmas present wrapped plinths. Today I’ll look up the special exhibitions at the CIA, and consider where I’d like to focus. It will be hard to top last year’s show ‘Art & Appetite’ – a still life artist’s dream exhibit. One twist is my curiosity about small scale sculpture. More on than anon.

Back to baking, decorating, wrapping and otherwise making spirits bright.